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  • May garden tips & tasks

    GARDEN EVENTS IN MIDDLE TENNESSEE

    May 20: Master Gardeners of Davidson County Urban Gardening Festival, 9 a.m. - 4 p.m., Ellington Agricultural Center Demonstration Garden. Free admission. www.mgofdc.org; on Facebook at www.facebook.com/mgofdc.

    June 10: Middle Tennessee Daylily Society show and sale, Ellington Agricultural Center’s Ed Jones Auditorium, 440 Hogan Rd. in Nashville. Sale open at 10 a.m.; show opens to the public at 1 p.m. To learn more about the Middle Tennessee Daylily Society, visit www.middletndaylilysociety.org.

    It’s time to plant those tender herbs and vegetable transplants, such as basil, dill, tomatoes, green peppers, hot peppers, eggplant.

    If tomato transplants are already too tall and leggy, you can plant them on their sides and cover the long stems with soil. The stem tips will turn upward, and the buried stems will sprout roots.

    Sow seeds of bush beans and pole beans, cucumbers, sweet corn, melons, okra, field peas, pumpkin, squash and zucchini. Follow the directions on the seed package for planting depth and spacing. Vegetables grow best in full sun.

    Cut the faded blossoms of peonies. Fertilize the plants lightly in late spring or early summer.

    Remember the basics of watering: morning is best, so plants’ leaves have time to dry before evening. Lawns, perennial borders and annuals like to have 1 – 1½ inches of water per week.

    Many indoor plants enjoy a summer vacation outdoors. Give them a cool, shady spot in the yard, and don’t forget to water them.

    Prune thyme frequently so it will stay full and green in the center.

    Weeding is easiest after a rain. If the ground is too dry and you need to weed, soak the bed first with a hose or sprinkler.

    Whether they’re growing in the ground or in pots on the porch, pinch the tips of geraniums from time to time to encourage them to branch out and to produce more flowers. Geraniums in pots benefit from regular feeding with a water-soluble fertilizer.

    Remember that mulch can be a gardener’s best friend. Pine straw or composted leaves are good alternatives to hardwood mulch.

    Harvest herbs as they reach their peak. Dry small leaves on a screen, hang small bunches of long-stemmed herbs in a warm, dry room out of the sunlight.

    Plants growing outdoors in containers dry out quickly when it’s hot. Check them daily, and water as needed.

    Don’t go near hydrangeas with the pruning shears unless all you’re cutting is dead branches. If the bigleaf hydrangeas look like they’re not going to bloom, it could be that the buds were nipped in a late cold snap, or the plant was pruned too late last year.

    As the flowers of Shasta daisies begin to open and then to fade, keep them clipped off. This prolongs the blooming season of daisies (and most other annuals and perennials), and keeps the plants looking better, as well.

    Watch for aphids on shrubs and perennials. A strong blast of water from a hose will remove many of them, or spray with insecticidal soap.

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What’s bugging the squash?

QUESTION: The leaves on some of my squash plants are beginning to wilt. Some of the small squash are rotting. What’s the reason?

squash gbWhen summer squash plants begin to go bad, you can probably blame it on insect pests. Two likely culprits: the squash bug and the squash vine borer.

“When squash leaves wilt and collapse, the squash bug is usually the pest to blame,” says extension agent David Cook. Squash bugs lay small, bronze-colored eggs on the undersides and upper surfaces of the leaves. Nymphs are gray with black legs, and are usually found in groups; adult squash bugs are broad and flat. They pierce the leaves and remove the sap, leaving the leaves wilted. You may also find them on cucumbers, melons and pumpkins.

The best control method is to be on the lookout for the eggs early in the season, and remove any that you find on the plants. (Organic Gardening magazine’s online pest control center suggests gently squishing them before they have a chance to hatch, and squishing any nymphs you may find, as
squash bug eggswell.) If you feel you must spray something, Cook says insecticides labeled for squash bug include bifenthrin, or permethrin. Always read and follow label directions.

If a long branch of the plant — or the entire plant — wilts suddenly, it’s the work of the squash vine borer, the larva of a moth that lays her eggs on the leaf stalks and vines. The eggs hatch in about a week, and the larva bores into the stem of the plant and begins to feed. If you look closely, you may find sawdust-like material near the base of the plant. To try to save the vine, split the stem open and remove the caterpillar. Mound soil up around the wound to encourage roots to grow.

After the larva enters the stem, insecticides are ineffective, so if you choose to use a chemical treatment, you have to start early. Cook says insecticides labeled for squash vine borer include bifenthrin, permethrin, carbaryl and esfenvalerate, and spinosad, which is considered a natural insecticide. Again, be sure to follow label instructions.

 

 

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