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    Sept. 30: The Nashville Herb Society presents Through the Garden Gate: A Glimpse of Edwardian England, 8 a.m. – 3 p.m. at Cheekwood Botanic Hall. Celebrate the gardens, foods and flowers that delighted Downton Abby family and friends at the turn of the 20th century. The event begins with a hearty Edwardian breakfast, followed by three speakers: Marta McDowell on Beatrix Potter’s Gardening Life; Geraldine A. Laufer on Tussie Mussie – Victorian art of expressing yourself in the language of flowers; and Terry White, The English Garden event florist . Registration includes breakfast, box lunch in the garden with music, English tea and cookies. To learn more or to register, visit www.herbsocietynashvlle.org.

    Tips & tasks – September

    Cut the dead tops of coneflowers, but leave enough for goldfinches to enjoy the seeds.

    Plant cool-weather vegetables for a fall crop: spinach, mustard and turnip greens, radishes, leaf lettuce.

    Start a new lawn of cool-season grass, such as fescue, or refurbish or repair establish lawns.

    Don’t let the soil of newly planted grass dry out. New grass needs about an inch of water per week.

    It’s still warm, so continue to water and weed garden beds as needed.

    Remove dead foliage, spent flowers and other garden debris; replenish mulch as needed.

    Continue to harvest produce, which may be getting a boost now from slightly cooler weather. Keep watering sage, rosemary and other perennial herbs so they’ll be in good shape to get through winter.

    Prepare to bring houseplants back indoors: remove dead leaves, scrub soil from the sides of the pots, treat for insects. Bring tropical plants in before nighttime temperatures dip to 55 degrees.

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Azaleas thrive when conditions are right

Question: Our azaleas on the eastern side of the house have never been very showy. The flowers are always puny and short-lived. This year one plant’s leaves are quite yellow. Is this is sign of disease or need for fertilizer? Any advice on helping the plants do better?

AzaleaFirst, consider what azaleas need to grow well, and you may find that one or more of these conditions (outlined by the Azalea Society of America) is not being met:

-Slightly acid soil (pH 5.5 – 6; a soil test can provide that information about the soil in your azalea bed).

-Enough sunlight. Less than 3 hours of sun reduces the number of buds.

-Adequate moisture. Like many other shrubs and perennials in the garden, azaleas need about an inch of water (rainfall or watering) per week. Mulch around the shrubs can help the soil retain moisture.

There are several factors that affect the number of blooms — including the fact that some are just “shy bloomers,” according to the Azalea Society. Lack of moisture during late spring and summer also affect bud formation, or there may be a phosphorous deficiency (again, the soil test can determine if that’s the case).

As for those yellow leaves: If the yellowing is between dark green veins, the condition is called chlorosis, which is usually caused by an iron deficiency, alkalinity of the soil, potassium, calcium or magnesium deficiency, or too much phosphorous. Iron sulfate or sulfur can acidify the soil.

Leaves that are uniformly a yellow – green color may just need more nitrogen. That soil test should be your first step to determine what the problem may be.

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2 Responses

  1. Great Info. I’m sharing…. 🙂 Happy Spring

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